Saltwater Sounds: Desolation Sound, Dahlias, and Almost Home

Welcome To This Week’s Saltwater Sounds…

A collection of ideas, tips, and inspiration. Here, I share everything happening in the world of Shiplap and Shells, what to look forward to on the blog, and the inspiration I’ve found throughout the week.

We spent about five days in Desolation Sound this week, and it was a different kind of stop than the ones we’ve been sharing lately.

No restaurants to report. No shops to wander through. No lively harbor towns. Just the boat, the water, the forest, the tides, the mountains, and the kind of quiet that’s genuinely hard to find anywhere else.

If you’ve been following along through Gibsons, Pender Harbour, and Lund, this week is a bit of a shift. And the peace that Desolation Sound offers is why it’s one of my favorite parts of the whole trip.

The weather wasn’t perfect… some rain and cooler temperatures than we’d hoped for. After hearing about the heat so many of you are dealing with right now, I’m not about to complain about a cool, misty anchorage in one of the most beautiful places on the BC coast.

This week’s post has our Desolation Sound story: Tenedos Bay, Refuge Cove, and Squirrel Cove. Plus a garden update from home that got me so excited! The dahlias are blooming, and they are stunning.

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Boating Adventures: Desolation Sound

Tenedos Bay in Desolation Sound

Our first stop was Tenedos Bay. We dropped anchor and just exhaled.

The next morning, we took the dinghy to shore and walked the trail to Unwin Lake.

Tenedos Bay stream on hiking trail

It’s a short hike but a beautiful one with a quiet path through thick, mossy forest, over fallen logs, alongside a rushing freshwater stream that bubbles and tumbles over rocks.

hiking trail with cream and black dogs walking

The forest is so dense and still that the sound of the water carries the entire walk.

stream on hiking trail off Tenedos Bay
wooden bridge over stream on hiking trail off Tenedos Bay
Unwin Lake from the hiking trail in Desolation Sound

Then the trees open up, and there’s the lake. It’s calm, clear, and warmer than you’d expect.

Lake Unwin with logs on the shore
 hiking trail off Tenedos Bay  with black and cream dogs walking

Jax and Ollie were absolutely in their element. The hike, the smells, and the water. Those two could not have been happier.

oysters on the beach and the front of a green kayak on the water

Tenedos Bay also has a shallow spit of land connecting the shore to a small island tucked in a hidden corner of the bay.

man and cream dog in green kayak on the water

At low tide, it dried up completely and is covered with oysters, fully separating one side of the bay from the other.

green kayak front in the water in Tenedos Bay

As the tide rolls back in, it only takes a foot or so of water, and you can paddle right through the narrow channel. It’s almost like finding a secret.

view of a trawler, Wildflower, anchored in Tenedos Bay

At night, Tenedos Bay is the quietest place we have ever anchored. I mean truly silent… no traffic, no voices, nothing. Just the boat moving gently with the tide in the dark.

boats anchored in Tenedos Bay with the mountain view

I do have to mention the mosquitoes. Nobody warns you about the mosquitoes in Desolation Sound in June and July. They were out all day, not just at dusk like you’d expect. And they were absolutely vicious. I had bites all over my arms and feet before we figured out that staying inside the boat was the only real solution.

Next time, I will bring serious bug spray and won’t underestimate them.

Refuge Cove in Desolation Sound BC Canada

After a couple of days on anchor, we headed to Refuge Cove for a few provisions and lunch.

Refuge Cove in Desolation Sound BC Canada

Boats can tie up to the docks for four hours for free, which is all you really need.

Refuge Cove in Desolation Sound BC Canada

Refuge Cove sits on West Redonda Island in the heart of Desolation Sound.

Refuge Cove in Desolation Sound BC Canada
Old shack in Refuge Cove in Desolation Sound BC Canada

It’s a small, genuine coastal community connected by old wooden boardwalks, with about twenty families living there through the summer months.

Refuge Cove General Store in Desolation Sound BC Canada
Refuge Cove in Desolation Sound BC Canada
a wooden telephone booth in Refuge Cove in Desolation Sound BC Canada

It has real character.

Refuge Cove General Store in Desolation Sound BC Canada

The general store is well stocked.

Refuge Cove in Desolation Sound BC Canada
Refuge Cove in Desolation Sound BC Canada

There’s also a gift shop on the cliffside property with a great selection of Yeti products and high-quality gift items. I have a weakness for their throw blankets.

gift shop in Refuge Cove in Desolation Sound BC Canada
Yeti's in a gift shop in Refuge Cove in Desolation Sound BC Canada
gift shop in Refuge Cove in Desolation Sound BC Canada
Refuge Cove outdoor cafe in Desolation Sound BC Canada

We had lunch on the deck with Jax and Ollie, watched the boats come and go, and just took it all in for a few hours before heading on.

having a margarita at Refuge Cove outdoor cafe in Desolation Sound BC Canada
overlooking the water from the Refuge Cove outdoor cafe in Desolation Sound BC Canada
boats anchored in Squirrel Cove at dusk

I was not prepared for how many boats were at Squirrel Cove. Anchored, stern-tied, tucked into every available spot. It’s a popular destination for good reason.

Squirrel Cove

At near high tide, you can take a kayak or dinghy into the small saltwater lagoon at the head of the cove, which fills and drains with each tide cycle. The key is not to stay too long.

Squirrel Cove

The rapids that form as the tide drops are fun to watch, and we’ve seen more than a few dinghies find out the hard way that they waited too long to leave.

Squirrel Cove

Last year, we anchored right in front of the lagoon entrance and spent the entire day watching the tides go in and out. Watching kayakers navigate the current was entertaining, and the sound of the water coming in and out all day was like our very own water feature.

fresh cooked clams in a bowl

And then there are the oysters and clams, which you can gather yourself right off the beach. Fresh shellfish for dinner on the boat. It doesn’t get much better than that.

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Back Home in the Garden: The Dahlias Have Arrived

David Howard orange dahlias growing in the garden

I’ve been waiting for this moment since we left. The housesitter photos this week were beautiful. The dahlias are blooming. I can’t wait to see them in person.

David Howard orange dahlias growing in the garden

The David Howard dahlias are one of my all-time favorites. That warm orange with the dark foliage underneath is the perfect combination.

Maarn orange dahlia

The Maarn is glowing the most beautiful deep orange.

The fuchsia dahlia is covered in raindrops and looks almost too pretty to be real.

And the Rip City dahlia in rich burgundy is just as dramatic as I hoped it would be.

The red dahlias are stunning.

And speaking of red, check out those vibrant gladiolus growing in the garden.

The Earthwalker sunflowers are open and gorgeous with that fabulous deep rust and orange.

The Sunfill Green sunflowers are a great contrast.

The red, pink, purple, and white coneflowers are pollinator attractors.

Phlox and purple alliums growing together are a perfect combination for the bees.

I had to show another picture of the white king-sized strawflowers that I’m growing for the first time. They are the delicate touch that makes the cut flower garden feel complete.

The asters in the cut flower garden just opened up this past week.

I’m loving the pale purple gladiolus!

The Sedum Autumn Joy always reminds me of a head of broccoli this time of year.

And the Stargazer lilies are true showstoppers in my cottage garden.

Outdoor Table Decor Ideas for a Stunning Summer Tablescape

Step out onto the deck, where the garden is in full bloom, the water shimmers in the background, and candlelight sets the tone for a laid-back summer gathering

Planning Christmas in July: A Month-By-Month Holiday Guide

Planning Christmas in July sounds a little crazy when you’re still hosting backyard barbecues and eating dinner on the deck. A little prep now is the difference between a December you enjoy and a December you survive.

Using Architectural Salvage Finds to Refresh a Hallway

Some of the best home refresh projects start with a single, unexpected find. For us, that find was a stack of old cedar planks turned into a hallway ceiling project I’ve been putting off for years.

My Favorite Inspiration Around the Web This Week

These antipasto tortellini skewers with lemon basil vinaigrette are perfect for your next summer party.

This seaside renovation has an antique touch.

This recipe for BBQ chicken sandwiches is an easy slow cooker meal the whole family will love!

Or how about putting a spin on barbecue chicken with these quesadillas?

Upcycle your old lampshade with this easy DIY fabric refresh.

Designer Thomas O’Brien has created his dream house and garden; you won’t want to miss it.

This frozen watermelon spritz looks like the perfect refreshing summer drink.

This pantry area is both organized AND beautiful.

These are the cutest DIY succulent vases.

You’ll love this Santa Barbara home from the JDP Interiors portfolio.

Wildflower is pointed toward home.

Five days in Desolation Sound have a way of resetting something in you… the quiet, the stillness, and the complete absence of noise at night.

See you next week for the latest stretch of the trip. And then I’ll be walking straight into the garden and cutting an armful of dahlias.

Until next time,

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