Saltwater Sounds: Desolation Sound, Dahlias, and Almost Home
Welcome To This Week’s Saltwater Sounds…
A collection of ideas, tips, and inspiration. Here, I share everything happening in the world of Shiplap and Shells, what to look forward to on the blog, and the inspiration I’ve found throughout the week.
This Week at a Glance
We spent about five days in Desolation Sound this week, and it was a different kind of stop than the ones we’ve been sharing lately.
No restaurants to report. No shops to wander through. No lively harbor towns. Just the boat, the water, the forest, the tides, the mountains, and the kind of quiet that’s genuinely hard to find anywhere else.
If you’ve been following along through Gibsons, Pender Harbour, and Lund, this week is a bit of a shift. And the peace that Desolation Sound offers is why it’s one of my favorite parts of the whole trip.
The weather wasn’t perfect… some rain and cooler temperatures than we’d hoped for. After hearing about the heat so many of you are dealing with right now, I’m not about to complain about a cool, misty anchorage in one of the most beautiful places on the BC coast.
This week’s post has our Desolation Sound story: Tenedos Bay, Refuge Cove, and Squirrel Cove. Plus a garden update from home that got me so excited! The dahlias are blooming, and they are stunning.
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Boating Adventures: Desolation Sound
Tenedos Bay

Our first stop was Tenedos Bay. We dropped anchor and just exhaled.
The next morning, we took the dinghy to shore and walked the trail to Unwin Lake.

It’s a short hike but a beautiful one with a quiet path through thick, mossy forest, over fallen logs, alongside a rushing freshwater stream that bubbles and tumbles over rocks.

The forest is so dense and still that the sound of the water carries the entire walk.



Then the trees open up, and there’s the lake. It’s calm, clear, and warmer than you’d expect.


Jax and Ollie were absolutely in their element. The hike, the smells, and the water. Those two could not have been happier.

Tenedos Bay also has a shallow spit of land connecting the shore to a small island tucked in a hidden corner of the bay.

At low tide, it dried up completely and is covered with oysters, fully separating one side of the bay from the other.

As the tide rolls back in, it only takes a foot or so of water, and you can paddle right through the narrow channel. It’s almost like finding a secret.

At night, Tenedos Bay is the quietest place we have ever anchored. I mean truly silent… no traffic, no voices, nothing. Just the boat moving gently with the tide in the dark.

I do have to mention the mosquitoes. Nobody warns you about the mosquitoes in Desolation Sound in June and July. They were out all day, not just at dusk like you’d expect. And they were absolutely vicious. I had bites all over my arms and feet before we figured out that staying inside the boat was the only real solution.
Next time, I will bring serious bug spray and won’t underestimate them.
Refuge Cove

After a couple of days on anchor, we headed to Refuge Cove for a few provisions and lunch.

Boats can tie up to the docks for four hours for free, which is all you really need.

Refuge Cove sits on West Redonda Island in the heart of Desolation Sound.


It’s a small, genuine coastal community connected by old wooden boardwalks, with about twenty families living there through the summer months.



It has real character.




The general store is well stocked.


There’s also a gift shop on the cliffside property with a great selection of Yeti products and high-quality gift items. I have a weakness for their throw blankets.




We had lunch on the deck with Jax and Ollie, watched the boats come and go, and just took it all in for a few hours before heading on.


Squirrel Cove

I was not prepared for how many boats were at Squirrel Cove. Anchored, stern-tied, tucked into every available spot. It’s a popular destination for good reason.

At near high tide, you can take a kayak or dinghy into the small saltwater lagoon at the head of the cove, which fills and drains with each tide cycle. The key is not to stay too long.

The rapids that form as the tide drops are fun to watch, and we’ve seen more than a few dinghies find out the hard way that they waited too long to leave.

Last year, we anchored right in front of the lagoon entrance and spent the entire day watching the tides go in and out. Watching kayakers navigate the current was entertaining, and the sound of the water coming in and out all day was like our very own water feature.

And then there are the oysters and clams, which you can gather yourself right off the beach. Fresh shellfish for dinner on the boat. It doesn’t get much better than that.
Back Home in the Garden: The Dahlias Have Arrived

I’ve been waiting for this moment since we left. The housesitter photos this week were beautiful. The dahlias are blooming. I can’t wait to see them in person.

The David Howard dahlias are one of my all-time favorites. That warm orange with the dark foliage underneath is the perfect combination.

The Maarn is glowing the most beautiful deep orange.

The fuchsia dahlia is covered in raindrops and looks almost too pretty to be real.

And the Rip City dahlia in rich burgundy is just as dramatic as I hoped it would be.

The red dahlias are stunning.

And speaking of red, check out those vibrant gladiolus growing in the garden.

The Earthwalker sunflowers are open and gorgeous with that fabulous deep rust and orange.

The Sunfill Green sunflowers are a great contrast.



The red, pink, purple, and white coneflowers are pollinator attractors.

Phlox and purple alliums growing together are a perfect combination for the bees.

I had to show another picture of the white king-sized strawflowers that I’m growing for the first time. They are the delicate touch that makes the cut flower garden feel complete.

The asters in the cut flower garden just opened up this past week.

I’m loving the pale purple gladiolus!

The Sedum Autumn Joy always reminds me of a head of broccoli this time of year.

And the Stargazer lilies are true showstoppers in my cottage garden.
On the Blog This Week
Outdoor Table Decor Ideas for a Stunning Summer Tablescape
Step out onto the deck, where the garden is in full bloom, the water shimmers in the background, and candlelight sets the tone for a laid-back summer gathering
Planning Christmas in July: A Month-By-Month Holiday Guide
Planning Christmas in July sounds a little crazy when you’re still hosting backyard barbecues and eating dinner on the deck. A little prep now is the difference between a December you enjoy and a December you survive.
Using Architectural Salvage Finds to Refresh a Hallway
Some of the best home refresh projects start with a single, unexpected find. For us, that find was a stack of old cedar planks turned into a hallway ceiling project I’ve been putting off for years.
My Favorite Inspiration Around the Web This Week
These antipasto tortellini skewers with lemon basil vinaigrette are perfect for your next summer party.
This seaside renovation has an antique touch.
This recipe for BBQ chicken sandwiches is an easy slow cooker meal the whole family will love!
Or how about putting a spin on barbecue chicken with these quesadillas?
Upcycle your old lampshade with this easy DIY fabric refresh.
Designer Thomas O’Brien has created his dream house and garden; you won’t want to miss it.
This frozen watermelon spritz looks like the perfect refreshing summer drink.
This pantry area is both organized AND beautiful.
These are the cutest DIY succulent vases.
You’ll love this Santa Barbara home from the JDP Interiors portfolio.

Wildflower is pointed toward home.
Five days in Desolation Sound have a way of resetting something in you… the quiet, the stillness, and the complete absence of noise at night.
See you next week for the latest stretch of the trip. And then I’ll be walking straight into the garden and cutting an armful of dahlias.
Until next time,

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